Saturday, August 26, 2006

Truckee River Rafting

Last weekend a group of us went on a leisurely rafting trip down the Truckee River. Here are some things I learned.

1. Go on Sunday and it is less crowded.

2. Book in advance to save money.

3. Book early because it's not only cheaper, it's easier to park.

4. Be aware that there are two rafting companies. Compare the two and park in the right place when you get there.

5. Have river shoes. It's much easier to push a stuck raft, and you're not as likely to lose them when you fall in. (Yeah, I fell in trying to dislodge our raft.)

6. Get a waterproof camera beforehand. They sell them at the station, but convenience has a price.

7. Do not put anything in the raft you would like to keep dry. This includes electronic car keys.

8. Bring something to feed the ducks, so the irresistible little quackers don't end up dining on your Pepperidge Farm goodies.

9. It's damn near impossible to drink beer and paddle at the same time. Plan on taking turns with the drinks and paddles.

10. Wait to put your life vest on until AFTER they take the picture at the start.

Thursday, August 17, 2006

Wildrose Charcoal Kilns

"Designed by Swiss engineers and built by Chinese laborers in 1879, these kilns produced charcoal for the Modock Mine smelter, about 30 miles west of here. The kilns closed after only three years of use. Because of their brief life and remote location, these may be the best-preserved examples of charcoal kilns in the West. Workers filled the air-tight kilns with pinyon pine logs (relatively abundant in the area) and fired them. The burning, which reduced the wood to charcoal, took 6-8 days. Cooling took another five days. Wagons then hauled the charcoal to the Modock Mine smelter, where it was used to extract silver and lead from the rich ore from Modock's mines." - US Department of the Interior, National Park Service, Death Valley National Park

To get to the kilns, take the Wildrose Canyon route to or from Death Valley. Drive carefully, because the road is rough and narrow, with pavement missing in places. The last leg of the journey is a dirt road. It is still do-able in a street car. You will pass a campground and ranger station on the way up.

Past the Charcoal Kilns the road gets worse, I don't recommend it without high clearance. However, if you can make it up, there is a great little campground with a fabulous view called Mahogany Flat as well as the trailhead to Telescope Peak.

Visit my website for photos.

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

The Lost Woman

Pregnant Teen Dumped in Remote Area to Die
Lover leaves Kate Vernon in Slate Range to perish
Special to the News Review

Residents of Ridgecrest, Trona and China Lake may be alarmed to hear of the alleged attempted murder of a teenage girl named Kate Vernon, formerly a Nebraska citizen, who was relocating to Southern California.

An unidentified man, said to be the father of her unborn child, is reported to have abandoned her in the Slate Range and continued on to the Los Angeles area.

Unfortunately, the statute of limitations for this alleged crime has expired. The event actually occurred in 1869, and Kate was a member of a wagon train.

Please forgive my dramatic introduction of this story. But if the News Review had existed in 1869, the headline news may very well have looked like what you have just read. And the reaction of the average reader may have been the same — for a crime did indeed occur in Ridgecrest’s own backyard.

A young woman endured a horribly undeserved trauma, and her child eventually became a victim as well.

And except for a few people who heard the story from the prospector who found Kate’s tattered and weathered diary, or the few more who read about the prospector in a mining history periodical published in the 1950s, the world has continued on without knowledge of these events.

You might say that for almost everyone in the world, this unknown drama has just occurred. The word is just reaching our ears and our eyes. And Kate, also known as “The Lost Woman,” might well have been victimized just yesterday.

There is another reason to regard Kate as freshly abused — the mysteries. Although little is recorded about Kate’s story, two huge questions have yet to be answered about this forsaken teenager.

First, where is her diary today? Second, what was Kate’s ultimate fate?

If we can draw together the accumulated experience and memory of the citizenry, perhaps we can answer one or both of these questions and eventually give Kate some small amount of justice.

After all this time, if Kate’s suffering can move from the condition of anonymous obscurity to public understanding and recognition, at least she will not have suffered in loneliness.

“The Pen is Mightier Than the Sword.” In the case of pregnant teenage Kate, this can be said to be true. She was on a California-bound wagon train when her trip was cut short and she was left to die.

But she did not die. The native inhabitants helped her build a tiny rock cabin, give birth to her son and eke out a meager living in a secluded canyon on the mountainside.

The whole while she kept a journal, only ceasing to make entries in about 1876 when her little boy Lee sickened and died at the age of six.

Nearly 30 years later, Kate’s diary would be found by prospector Joseph Ward.
Old Joe shares Kate’s story

Joe Ward was born on the Isle of Man and had coincidentally immigrated to the United States at the age of 16 in the year that little Lee Vernon died. Joe hoped the dry desert climate would help his tuberculosis.

"Old Joe Ward,” as he would someday be known, was educated in mineralogy, and had some success in locating mines.

A loner and poet, he spent most of his time prospecting with his favorite burros. Out of necessity he would leave his valued possessions with friends.

Meanwhile Joe freely shared Kate’s story with others. Mary Carrasco of Lone Pine recalls hearing Old Joe’s tale of the Lost Woman when Mary was nine. And later as a teenager she heard the story repeated by others with whom Joe had conversed.

The story was eventually published in a 1950s edition of the Tonopah Times and quickly reprinted in Lucille Weight’s Calico Print magazine. By then Joe was dead. He had suddenly sickened out in the desert, and was so quickly rushed to Los Angeles for treatment that even some of his local family did not know what had become of him.

After a year in the hospital, he died in 1946. But what had become of the diary?

In the 1930s Joe had located a mineral lode in the Slate Range and had sold the claim to a friend, Dick Gilbert, an employee of Metro Goldwyn Mayer Studios who admitted to having been bitten by the “gold bug.” He developed the mining claim into an operating business.

All too soon, however, World War II closed off access to his gold mine.

Where is the diary?

After Gilbert read Kate’s story in the Calico Print, he added his verification of Joe’s words, including the idea that the diary would have been left with someone Joe trusted out in the desert.

Gilbert even supplied an old, old photo of Kate’s cabin, located somewhere near his mine. But the location of the diary was a mystery even to him.

So where does that leave Kate's story today? I have had no success in located any of Gilbert’s family, but that does not mean there is no one left that does not remember Joe Ward, who still has family here in Southern California.

Those remembering Old Joe include Lee Widder of Temecula, and John Nicoll of Weldon. John remembers seeing Joe prospecting out in the desert, lamenting his lifestyle as “lonely, so lonely.” John and his wife Rita have spent a good deal of time researching Joe’s old claims, activities and poetry.

But none of them had heard of Kate or her diary.

So what physical evidence remains of the crime against Kate? As it turns out, quite a bit.

Several years ago I set out to follow in Kate’s footsteps, to find the actual location of her ordeal. In the process I located relatives of Old Joe as well as legal documentation that supports Dick Gilbert’s claim to have identified Kate’s cabin.

Author finds Kate’s cabin

Eventually, with the help of the Department of the Navy and Leroy Doig, the China Lake historian, I even found Kate’s cabin, forgotten since the 1930s.

Searles Lake was a lonely place in 1869. Far from white civilization, it was a good place to die if one was not prepared. When Kate woke up one morning to find her lover and horse gone, she was ill prepared indeed. He had left her only a little food and water.

Kate was left for all intents and purposes abandoned on the face of the Moon, within sight of the place known as the Trona Pinnacles.

John Searles was operating in this area at this time, but I don’t know whether Kate ever connected with him.

In fact, it was the local native inhabitants who helped Kate survive. With their help she built her tiny rock cabin — no bigger inside than a closet — set up a small garden, and bore her child Lee.

Surely this is more consideration than her own society would have given an unwed mother.

After Lee’s death, Kate stopped writing in her diary, no doubt her grief too great to put into words. At some point she left her cabin, the diary remaining at the mercy of time and the elements.

Area’s not as lonely today

Today this area is not quite as lonely as in 1869. But it’s still quiet, except when a Navy jet rushes overhead.

The eerie and majestic Trona Pinnacles still stand, as alien as the surface of another planet. In fact, this natural wonder is often used in Hollywood science-fiction productions.

Remember when Kirk ventured to the center of the galaxy to meet God? God lived at the Trona Pinnacles, you know.

Searles Lake is still there. As is the Slate Range. And up one canyon lie the ruins of Kate’s cabin, still identifiable from a 1930s image. The spring reported in the legend still produces water just above the homesite. A little root cellar in the floor of the cabin preserves only wild grass now.

Lee’s gravestone has not been seen since the 1930s.

Perhaps one day the cabin will be restored to its former humble completeness. Perhaps Lee’s little gravesite will be rediscovered. Perhaps one day Kate’s diary will be found in an old dusty box in the attic of someone whose grandparents knew Joe Ward.

Perhaps we will even learn Kate’s final fate.

The diary no doubt contains personal information that could help answer the ultimate question: Where is the Lost Woman?

One tantalizing clue was found in a forgotten mine tunnel not far from Kate’s place — a woman’s crumbling dress. Was it Kate’s? Did she find mineral riches and return to her own society a wealthy woman?

Who knows?

And who will be the one to find the answer? With all the history and memories in Ridgecrest and Trona, maybe ... just maybe ... it will be you.

Rick Ferreira works in film restoration and is a graduate of the UCLA film school. He came across Kate Vernon’s story while in college and continues his investigations to this day.

Darwin Falls

Darwin Falls is a real treasure. Imagine a long drive through Panamint Valley, one of the driest places on earth, even dryer than Death Valley. The landscape is dotted with tiny little creosote bushes struggling to stay alive. When you reach the end, you head left toward Olancha and Lone Pine. Past the Panamint Springs resort--which I recommend more for its cute atmosphere than its food--is a dirt road to Darwin Falls. The view along the way is dry red soil and rocks, lots of rocks. This road will take you to a trailhead with a decent sized parking area. The trip is doable in a street car to this point, I've even seen a big motor home full of tourists negotiate the somewhat precarious entrance to the parking area.

From here take your daypack and camera and begin the easy walk up to the Falls. A few yards into the trip you find yourself in the unlikely presence of water. It's just a trickle, but soon you will find yourself walking under the shade of trees and brushing through cattails. Towards the end you may have to scramble over a few somewhat slippery rocks, but this is the only challenge to the journey.

Finally, you hear the sound of rushing water and come into a clearing bearing the gorgeous Darwin Falls. They pour over a rock into a clear, inviting pool below. I haven't seen any fish, but one time there was a healthy population of little chirping frogs. It is a true desert oasis, a wondrous throwback to the age when the valleys were lakes.

As a side note, on my first trip to Darwin Falls we missed the trailhead and continued up the dirt road. High clearance is advisable at this point. Up the hill is a cool old mine to check out, with the remains of some rock cabins.

Visit my website for photos.

Panamint City

My trip to Panamint City is my favorite adventure. No contest. I spent 4 years in college living in one of the greatest cities in the world and traveling to places such as Australia, Hawaii and New York City only to I find that the city I'd most like to return to is in my own backyard. Define irony.

Panamint City is located in the Panamint Mountains. Take the road to Ballarat and then head left toward Indian Ranch. Then take the first dirt road on the right up a massive alluvial fan to Surprise Canyon. You can probably make it to the trailhead if the road conditions are in your favor. A small family operated mine is at the bottom, so tread lightly out of respect for their water supply.

Be prepared to work once you get out of the car. The sign at the base of the trailhead says 10 miles to Panamint City. I'm still not convinced this is true, I think it may actually be 5 miles (10 round trip). Still, it is a 5000 ft gain complete with rock scrambling, bushwhacking and some backtracking due to losing the trail. It felt like 10 to me, since I was out of shape. You can do the hike roundtrip in a day. We met many people on the trail who did, but I would recommend it as an overnight trip. It's worth an extra day just to explore the town.

Panamint City is a ghost town. In its day, it was a booming little metropolis in a most unlikely location. Most of the city washed away in flash floods down Surprise Canyon. Witnessing firsthand the destruction water is capable of in a short time is fascinating enough, but what really captivated my spirit was what survived.

You may understand what has enchanted my heart and the hearts of other hikers when you reach the city. You join a grassroots community of people who take care of its remnants so to keep it habitable for other hikers. Expect to find running water, beds with mattresses, sleeping bags, kitchenware and food. Camp for a night in backpacker luxury and explore the town and mines. Read other people's adventures in the journals. Explore the mine. Bring a flashlight, a marker for your initials and borrow a hardhat from the cabin.

Panamint City allows you to actually live the life of a miner, in contrast to the sterile, restrictive tours of places like Scotty's Castle. It's real life as opposed to the closed off virtual reality known to our video game generation. I practiced the lost art of conversation and companionship with my hiking partner, and learned a great deal of what I was made of. We were human beings simply being human. The pretension, schedules and distractions common to my trips to places like New York, Hawaii and Sydney had disappeared without a trace.


Visit my website for photos. Click the top photo for a slideshow.

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

New Adventures Blog

I love the desert and the Eastern Sierra. No secret there. Though I no longer live off Highway 395, the triangle from Ridgecrest to Bridgeport to Death Valley will always be home to me. Most of this content is duplicated from my website, www.desert-rose.net, but I needed an easy way to be able to connect with other people who share a love or at least an interest in this area.

Enter this blog. I welcome your insights into any of these places, and would love ideas on where to go explore next. Thanks for reading and I hope to hear from you.